Change N15 Pulsar Fuel Pump

Disclaimer: Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this website for the advice of a paid professional. This website is how I accomplished my installation and is not meant to be carved in stone. I cannot be held responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information. Just use common sense.
WARNING: When working on any form of the car that involved FUEL please be EXTREMELY careful. Always work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT SMOKE (yeah thats right, don't even smoke near the door as fuel vapor can fill a room). Keep all open flames away from your work area. Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable before working on your fuel system. Be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy at all times (having more then one is a VERY wise move).
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT ONE OF THESE HANDY
Fire
Do NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE LESS THEN 1/4 tank of fuel left.
Now that's out of the way, first things first is bleed the fuel pressure from the system.
1. The easiest way to do this is just pop out the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over a few times (it may start and they stall) this is fine, just crank it a couple of more times after it stalls, pop the fuse back in and remove the keys from the ignition.
Rear
 
1. The fuel pump is located under the inspection hole under the back seat. To remove the rear seat there are 2 white clips that you pull forward and then lift the rear seat. Once the seat is removed you will have 3x12mm bolts holding the cover on, remove these and lift the grey cover out of the way. If like me you will need to get rid of the thick layer of dust on the top of the fuel assembly. Remove the electrical connectors then vacuum away until it's perfectly clean
Dust
 
Fuel
3. Once clean make sure you have some rags handy, now disconnect the fuel lines. Use pliers to remove the 2 fuel lines. Tuck the fuel lines to the side and remove the 6x 8mm bolts holding the fuel assembly in place.
Fuel
4. Lift the fuel gauge assembly up and disconnect the tubes and electrical connector underneath.
Fuel
5. Then you can carefully tip the fuel gauge assembly towards the rear of the car and pull it out of the tank. You can place the assembly to the side.
Fuel
6. Removing the fuel pump chamber assembly. The chamber is to the passenger side of the tank (just follow the fuel lines). Lift the chamber up a little and slide it forward. Then take it from the tank. Once out cover the fuel tank opening with a clean rag.  
Fuel
7. Now the whole reason we need this is to pop the unit apart and replace the fuel pump. There are 3 clips around the unit, unclip the top cover and lift it off (be careful with the clips as the plastic may be brittle).
Side
Rear
8. Now the unit is apart remove the pump and strainer, disconnect the hose and plug from the pump and put them both onto your new pump.
Fuel
 
9. Carefully remove the strainer from the old pump and put onto the new pump. Use the newly provided clip to hold the strainer onto the new pump.
Strainer
10. Clean and wipe out the chamber and reassemble the fuel chamber.
Dirty
Clean
11. Put the new pump with the old sleeve, strainer, electrical connector and fuel line back into the chamber and clip the lid back on. Slot the chamber back into the fuel tank and slide it into place. There should be a small click once it's in place.
In
12. Put the fuel assembly back into the tank and connect up the electrical connector and the 2 lines inside the tank. Put the NEW o-ring in place and put the fuel assembly ring on and tighten down the 6x 8mm bolts. Once there in place plug the electrical connector back on and put your fuel lines back. Install the grey cover in reverse order of removal.
o-ring
 
NOTE: Some people don't replace this o-ring your mileage may vary. If you use the old one, once exposed to air it may not fit, throw it in the freezer for 5-10mins then take it out and put it straight on, you "should" be ok, but it's always best to replace the o-ring with a new one.


AD22VF Brake Rebuild Guide Part 2

Disclaimer: Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this website for the advice of a paid professional. This website is how I accomplished my installation and is not meant to be carved in stone. I cannot be held responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information. Just use common sense. Now that you have cleaned, and painted your calipers it's time to put them back together and on the car. Open up one of your brake rebuild kits and make sure you have everything. (figure .1)
(Figure .1)
1. Place the calipers in a vice it will be much easier to put the piston in this way. The calipers with have a groove in them where the inner seal will seat to seal the piston. The outer groove will hold the protective dust seal. (figure .2)
(Figure .2)
2. Using fresh brake fluid lubricate ALL caliper internal surfaces, the piston (figure .3) outer surface and all rubber seals (figure .4). Now insert the inner seal.
(Figure .3)
 
(Figure .4)
3. Now comes the tricky part.... Put the dust boot on the piston (figure .5). Open the boot all the way down the piston (figure .6), this will help with seating the dust seal in the caliper.
(Figure .5)
 
(Figure .6)
Place the piston in the caliper and push the bottom of the dust seal into the caliper. You may have to twist the piston back and forth to ensure the dust seal is in place. Then align the piston into the caliper cylinder and press the piston into place over the inner seal. You only want the piston to get just past the inner seal, don't push it all the way in, (figure .7) as you need to seat the spring clip that holds the inner dust seal in place. It may take a fair bit of pressure to get the piston to slide beyond the inner seal, just keep equal pressure on the piston as it needs to be absolutely square. Once it's just pass the inner seal put the spring clip in place and you should be able to push the piston all the way down with your fingers, if it won't go don't force it, it will take a bit of wiggling to get the piston to slide past the inner seal.
(Figure .7)
5. Putting the brake mount seals in and lubricating the main pin guides. Generally one of the rebuild kits will have a small white rubber tip, this is used to slip over a piece of rod to help push in the main pin bolt rubber guide (figure .8). I used a small drill bit to push the guide through, be careful not to use anything sharp as you don't want to pierce the end of the pin guide. Make sure smear some lubricating grease over the outside of the main rubber guide (figure .9) to help slide it in. Use the same grease to lubricate the inside of the main pin bolt rubber guide and the other side pin bolt as well (figure .10). Smear a little grease on the main pin bolts as well.
(Figure .8)
 

(Figure .9)

(Figure .10)

6. Now we have the completed mounting bracket (figure .11) and completed caliper (figure .12). Time to put it all together on the car.

(Figure .11)

(Figure .12)

7. The mounting bracket on the car (after removing the heat/water shield).

Mounting bracket and caliper

and last but not least, the before and after shots :)


AD22VF Brake Rebuild Guide Part 1

Disclaimer: Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this website for the advice of a paid professional. This website is how I accomplished my installation and is not meant to be carved in stone. I cannot be held responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information. Just use common sense. Now thats out of the way of, you found yourself a set of AD22VF calipers, you get them home wondering what to do next..... One thing you MUST do is strip them down and give them a rebuild. You have no idea how long they have sat for and brakes are one thing you can never skimp on. So I have written this little article on how to rebuild you AD22VF calipers. This is a very messy job, do be prepared to get dirty. I have always found that a set of latex gloves are your friends, for this kind of work ;)

CAUTION: Brake fluid will DAMAGE any painted surface it comes in contact with, so BE CAREFUL.

1. Depending on your car you may only need the calipers as you can use the caliper mounting bracket that is on the car, in my case (being an LX) I need the whole caliper and bracket. (Figure 1)
(Figure .1)

2. To remove the caliper from the mounting bracket (tech speak: torque member): locate the two 14mm pin bolts and remove one of them. (It may require a tap with a hammer to break it loose). (Figure .2)

(Figure .2)

This will allow you to flip the bracket over and remove the pads and shims. (Figure .3). You can then slide the caliper off and undo the last pin bolt from the mounting bracket.

(Figure .3)

3. Place the caliper in some sort of container, as brake fluid will still drain out of it. You will now have to remove the piston from the caliper, I use a little bit of compressed air, it doesn't take much air pressure to force the piston out. Make sure you use a rubber tipped air gun to ensure you don't damage the thread. (Figure .4)
(Figure .4)
Make sure you place a couple of pieces of wood in front of the piston(Figure .5) so when you pop it out it won't damage the caliper or itself.

(Figure .5)

Ensure you don't have your fingers between the piston and the timber. If you don't have access to a compressor you can VERY CAREFULLY use a long thing punch and insert it in the main fluid port. Using very light taps you can drive the piston out of the caliper. Make sure you don't touch the threads with the punch to prevent damaging them.

(Figure .6)

4. Here is the main reason we rebuild calipers. (Figure .7). Once the dust boot is breached, fine particles of brake dust and dirt from the road as well as water, find there way onto the piston and can cause an inner seal failure.

(Figure .7)

As you can see this caliper has sat for sometime and the boot has been breached for sometime. (Figure .8).

(Figure .8)

5. Now the fun part, clean, clean, clean, and clean all components. (Figure .9-11)
(Figure .9)
I did say clean, this takes a while and some good elbow greese to get it done properly.

(Figure .10)

(Figure .11)

6. Now it's up to you, if you wish to paint your calipers or just put the back together, I decided to paint mine up.
(Figure .12)
Pictures below with the finished/painted calipers ready to have the pistons put back in and then the caliper put back together. (Figure .12-14).

(Figure .13)

(Figure .14)

7. And the final parts all cleaned and painted ready to be put together. (Figure .15)

(Figure .15)

(Figure .16)

Part II of my caliper rebuild I'll show you how to put the piston in, (the hardest part of this whole exercise) and of course installing the new calipers and rotors (Figure .16) on the car. Until then, Cheers Adam


Nissan

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